William Lofts explored these Caribbean islands, Aviator-style

During my early flying career I worked in Florida as a charter pilot. Flying in and around The Bahamas, I set foot on almost all of the islands, and often I wondered what it would be like to remain behind and explore. Last week I found out. My girlfriend and had the opportunity to fly our own light aircraft from Florida to The Bahamas and this time, could actually stay!

As the journey would last just one week, I had to choose my stops carefully. You see, the small chain of Caribbean islands known as The Bahamas stretches from Grand Bahama (just 55 miles East of West Palm Beach) all the way to Great Inagua. It is comprised of twenty-three inhabited islands, scattered with hundreds of unpopulated islets and cays in between.

For this trip I decided to fly to Bimini, then make the transition to Grand Bahama. These islands are both under an hour’s flight from South Florida, and give travellers chance to experience The Bahamas from two very different extremes.

Bimini

Day One

Bimini is made up of two islands, North and South. We landed at South Bimini Airport, a single runway capable of handling light aircraft and jet traffic.

We were staying just down the road in the small settlement of Port Royal, a community of houses far removed from a typical tourist destination.

Our house, a bungalow on stilts, came with an ‘island’ golf cart as transportation. This is all you need to traverse the island and is perfectly suited to Bimini’s slow pace of life.

Opening the front door, we were greeted by a magnificent view. Waters every possible shade of blue were only meters away.

Grabbing mask and snorkel, Justine and I immediately made for the beach, a small swath of sand dropping off over the rock and coral reef below. Here we found fish all shapes and sizes, with Tarpon, Jack, Grouper, Snapper, and Barracuda all swarming around us. We even spotted a sting ray digging in for the afternoon. This, for a couple of land landlubbers. and only twenty feet offshore, was a breathtaking experience.

Fo dining we chose The Petite Conch, a quiet little restaurant sitting at the entrance to the Bimini Beach Club. They offer an assortment of seafood along with the obligatory burger or club sandwich. Of course, when in Rome… We ordered and were promptly served Cracked Conch and Lobster Salad, both fresh and absolutely first-class.

Day Two
On our second day we made for the North side of the island. Two dollars and five minutes by ferry later, we disembarked on North Bimini’s shores. This island is famous not just for world-class fishing, but also world-class writing. Ernest Hemingway made Bimini his home during the 1930s, writing To Have and Have Not whilst there. It is said that the big game fishing of the islands inspired The Old Man and the Sea, whilst the Gulf Stream and its fish stirred Hemingway to write Islands in the Stream.

With this in mind, you cannot visit Bimini without making the sad pilgrimage to The Complete Angler, Hemingway’s Bahamas home, which burned down in 2006.

The loss does however make room for Big John’s, a laid-back bar and restaurant sitting on the Bimini Marina. We were greeted there by a motley crew of intrepid sailors, family boaters and Bimini fisherman, all willing to share their tales over a cold beer.

Grand Bahama

Day Three
Our flight was a short one and fifty minutes later, I was descending into Ginn Sur Mer’s private West End. The airport is accessible with 48 hours prior notice. If arriving by commercial airline, Freeport International is only twenty miles away and serviced by most US airlines. Upon landing we were welcomed by Anthony Smith, the airport’s manager, and Jackie Carroll, our liason at Old Bahama Bay.

Old Bahama Bay describes itself as ‘the ultimate getaway for tranquility, relaxation and pampered service, combining Bahamian charm and luxury’. Offering a full-service marina, customs and immigration, lavish accommodations and excellent restaurants, it lives up to promises.

Our accommodation at Old Bahama Bay was a spacious ground floor cottage. Styled with a Caribbean flair, both the living room and bedroom opened onto the ocean facing patio. We were equidistant from beach, pool, bar, and restaurant. Old Bahama Bay supplies equipment for sailing, snorkeling, kayaking or just lying out on the beach catching the rays. Massages are also offered if you feel like pampering yourself whilst listening to the waves lap the shore.

West End, which is home to Old Bahama Bay, is the capital and the oldest city on Grand Bahama. It is located only 55 miles from West Palm Beach and was ideally situated for the ‘Rum-Runners’ during prohibition times. Perhaps that’s why I felt so at home there!

If you are looking to get away from resort life, head for Triple Play, a West End sports bar with a strong local feel serving cracked conch and chips, washed down with a bottle of Sands Beer, all for under $10. In these tough times a deal indeed and one not to be missed.

Day Four
8am next morning, we met with Adrian Martin, our guide for the day. Adrian had our itinerary mapped out and at first glance it looked to be a busy one. However, Mr. Martin’s expert knowledge of Grand Bahama and its colorful history, neatly interspersed with tales of his own, made the morning fly by.

Noon, and we had already seen the boiling hole, The Perfume Factory, and Sands Brewery. We were now off to The Garden of the Groves, twelve acres of Botanical beauty with over 10,000 plant species. I’m no expert when it comes to gardens, but this place is a must for any plant buffs out there. Orchids abundant, wild birds overhead and fish in every pond.

For the more adventurous there is Unexso, The Underwater Explorers Society. Established in 1965, Unexso is a full-service scuba-diving resort offering everything from reef, wreck and shark to Dolphin dives. Not certified, no problem – you can get your training right there, or like us, choose just to swim and interact with their dolphins. This is something you’ll never forget.

If it is fishing you are after, then Old Bahama Bay can arrange that too. Tristain, grandson of the legendary fisherman Bonefish Folley, took us to the flats and reefs off West End. We returned victorious with Baracuda, fresh conch and a smile. Bonefish Folley, now 90 years of age, no longer fishes himself, but will regale you with stories of times on the water with Hemingway and Nixon.
The experience offers exceptional snorkelling, beaches, boats, dolphins and diving, all wrapped up in the Bahamian sunshine and washed down with a frozen Pina Colada or Cold Bahamian Beer.

Verdict
Looking for a Caribbean holiday but not wanting to stray too far from the comforts of home? Don’t forget The Bahamas. They have it all.

Accommodation:
Old Bahama Bay
(West End, Grand Bahama Island; www.oldbahamabay.com)
Ultimate Bahamas getaway with 67 junior suites and 6 spacious two bedroom suites as well as a 72 slip port of entry marina.

With thanks to
Grand Bahama Ministry of Tourism:
Sanique Culmer (sculmer@bahamas.com)
Donna Mackey (dmackey@bahamas.com)
Old Bahama Bay (www.oldbahamabay.com):
Tristan (Bonefish Folley & Son) – Contact Old Bahama Bay
Jackie Carroll (jcarroll@ginncompany.com)
AM Transportation:
Adrian Martin (amtransprotation@hotmail.com)
Unexso (www.unexso.com)
Bahamas Tourist Office
(www.bahamas.co.uk)