Looking for a refuge from the World Cup? South Devon has it all, says Martin Elman.

A trip to South Devon is worthwhile for all alike. Ideal for those who want to get away from it all, it provides a haven from the frenetic pace of city life, and a refuge from the ubiquity of the World Cup.
My wife and I stayed in South Devon for three days in late May. This was before World Cup season had kicked off, but not before World Cup mania had whipped the country into a football-focussed frenzy. It was relief to discover Dartmouth. While nowhere on Earth, of course, is completely impervious to football silly season, this area is so packed with sights and activities, the most ardent England supporter would struggle to prioritise the match.

ACCOMMODATION
We were based in the Dart Marina Hotel with a balcony room overlooking the River Dart. The hotel is the epitome of understated luxury. The Restaurant & Bistro offers ample choice of good slow food, perfectly in keeping with the hotel’s unhurried vibe. And if you want to take ‘unhurried’ to the next level, pay a visit to the separate Elemis Spa: with pool, jacuzzi, steam room, gym and a wide range of therapies, it is the perfect place to bliss out. Treat yourself to one of the hotel’s Devon Cream Teas as you sit and watch the boats glide by.

EXPLORING THE AREA
Dartmoor itself is a wonderful place to explore. The scenery changes from lush green valley to treeless sparse moor and back to valley, time and time again. On a drive through, it’s worthwhile stopping off for meandering walks along the rocky hilltops. You might also want to visit a couple of gardens en route: the Garden House and the RHS Rosemoor garden are undisputedly among England’s finest.
Ten minutes away from the hotel, at the centre of Dartmouth, you can board a boat and embark on the first phase of a Round Robin trip. Run by the Dartmouth Steam Railway and River Boat Company, it takes you up the River Dart to Totnes, with the beauty of the scenery matched only by the interest value of the running commentary. When you reach Totnes, you can hop on a bus to Paignton: its large sandy beach comes with all the trappings of a traditional English resort, amusement arcades and donkeys included. Finally, as a third leg of your trip, step back in time on the Steam Railway to Kingswear, and from here it’s a mere five minute ferry back to the Dartmouth quayside.

EATING OUT
Dartmouth provides a wide range of eating options, including some very special fine dining. We sated our appetites at the Seahorse, a fish restaurant owned by the awardwinning Mitch Tonks. The restaurant is currently on a drive to promote South Devon crab, a truly delicious and strangely undervalued local resource. If crab’s not your seafood of choice, however, the fresh grilled Sea Bass provides a true taste of summer on the seafront, and the service and the wine list are second to none.

ACTIVITIES
There are more things to do in South Devon than there are hours in the day. Two summer festivals of note are the Exeter Summer Festival, 25 June – 10 July (there are forty entertaining events lined up including a spectacular firework finale) and the Ways with Words Festival, 9-19 July, featuring such literary giants as Martin Amis and Ian McEwan. In keeping with this cultured feel, art lovers ought to take a peek at Damien Hirst’s Mother and Child exhibit. It is being lent by the Tate to the Torre Abbey Historic House and Gallery from July 6, and is guaranteed to stir up debate.
Of course, not everyone is desperate to escape the World Cup, even in South Devon. Reluctant escapees will be pleased to hear that, if England make the final, the match will be shown in the Great Hall at Dartington with analysis from Blake Morrison, John Lanchester and Brian Moore.

VERDICT
Just four hours away from London, South Devon is quite a different world. Escape here for scenery, seafood and a huge array of activities: it will serve as a refreshing balm for World Cup fever and a perfect panacea for the strains of London life.

Accommodation:

Dart Marina Hotel & Spa
(Sandquay Road Dartmouth Devon TQ6 9PH, www.dartmarina.com, 01803 832580)
Luxurious hotel with Elemis spa: unpretentious, contemporary and impressive in the extreme.

Restaurants:

The Seahorse
(5 South Embankment, Dartmouth, TQ6 9BH. www.seahorserestaurant.co.uk; 01803 835147)
Seafood restaurant by awardwinning restaurateur Mitch Tonks. The crab is recommended.

Further info:

www.visitdevon.co.uk
www.visitsouthdevon.co.uk